How to make your Tribal/ATS Belly Dance Costume:Pantaloons
Material needed: 4 meters of fabric with matching thread, 2 meter roll of elastic, a bodkin (pictured below) or loop turner(pictured below). Optional: half meter, 60cm wide t-shirt fabric, or cotton ribbing
Find some nice breathable fabric, not too slippery to work with. For big 'poofy' pantaloons, I suggest 2 meters per pant leg, but if you are slender, you can get away with 1.5 meters per pantleg. A handy suggestion: Have the fabric store cut two 2 meter panel (or two 1.5 meters), as it makes it easier to cut the fabric pattern at home. You can also use cotton ribbing, or t-shirt fabric for the waist band for comfort and slip prevention.
Lay your fabric panels directly on top of each other. Measure yourself from belly to center of crotch, and from back of hip to center of crotch. Remember, don't measure straight down, or you will end up giving yourself a wedgie, as they will be too tight. If you choose to make a ribbing waist band, remember to deduct that from your measurements. Also when you cut, keep the selvage edges at top and bottom of your fabric intact, as it will make gathering/pinning it to a waist band much easier. If you plan to make more than one pair of pantaloons, keep the corner cutouts to use as templates.
After you have cut the corners out to form the crotch, fold each pantleg in half so the center crotch pieces meet. Sew inside out, from center crotch to cuff of leg. Do other leg. Make sure you have made a left leg and a right leg. Don't worry about the small bit of fabric that extends from the end of the cuff. Keeping fabric inside out, join the two legs by pinning the top 'belly' and 'hip' edges together and sewing the crotch seam in a single arc. Some find it easier to pin the inseam crotch together and sew from center up to waist band area.
If you have planned for a waist band, cut out a 25cm wide piece of ribbing material long enough to fit comfortably, yet securely, on your hips. Fold it in half, and sew it closed on the bottom edge. Gather your pantaloon fabic loosely on a on sturdy thread to fit the waistband, pinning the pantaloons on 'skin side' of the waistband as you go(yes they are going to look enormously big, but that is exactly what they look like before they are finished.) Once you have gathered and fitted the fabric onto the waistband, sew them together, leaving the selvage edges of your pantaloon fabric on the inside of the garment, making sure you leave a small opening in the waist band for either elastic or a drawstring.
To cuff your pantaloons, while inside out, turn the cuff up about 6cms, and do a normal straight stitch hem. I suggest using thinner elastic for the cuff, as the gathered fabric with add bulk. Use the bodkin or the loop turner and slide the cuff up on it, attach elastic on the hook on the loop turner, or threading it through the eye of the bodkin, and carefully draw it through. Stitch ends of elastic together.
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